Antioxidant and antimicrobial properties of dihydroquercetin esters

Abstract Flavonoids display various beneficial biological properties, such as antioxidant activity and low cytotoxicity, which make them useful ingredients in foods, pharmaceuticals, and functional cosmetics. In particular, dihydroquercetin (DHQ) is found in various forms, and its derivatives exhibit interesting biological properties. Herein, we report the synthesis of acetylated and butyrylated dihydroquercetin derivatives and their antimicrobial and antioxidant properties. The DHQ derivatives were identified using 1H and 13C NMR spectroscopies and high-performance liquid chromatography combined with quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry. The chemical stabilities of the acetylated dihydroquercetin derivatives were found to depend on the number of acetate groups, with 3,3',4',4,7-pentaacetyldihydroquercetin found to be the most stable acetylated dihydroquercetin. Furthermore, 7,3',4'-triacetyl- dihydroquercetin exhibited potent antioxidant activity, with an IC50 of 56.67 ± 4.79 µg/mL in the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl assay, with DHQ exhibiting a value of 32.41 ± 3.35 µg/mL. The reactive-oxygen-species-scavenging activity of 7,3',4'-triacetyldihydroquercetin was highest among the esters in the ferric reducing ability of plasma assay, but lower than that of DHQ. Overall, both DHQ and 7,3',4'-triacetyldihydroquercetin exhibited antimicrobial behavior against S. aureus and P. acnes using the paper disc assay. DHQ displayed a higher antimicrobial activity, with minimum inhibitory concentrations of 625 µg/mL (P. acnes), 2,500 µg/mL (S. aureus), and 5,000 µg/mL (E. coli). DHQ and acetylated dihydroquercetins are potentially useful as complex antioxidant and antimicrobial materials

Physicochemical characterization and cosmetic applications of Passiflora nitida Kunth leaf extract

Abstract Passiflora nitida Kunth, an Amazonian Passiflora species, is little studied, although the specie's high biological potential. Herein the plant's pharmacognostic characterization, extract production, antioxidant potential evaluation, and application of this extract in cosmetic products is reported. The physical chemical parameters analyzed were particle size by sieve analysis, loss through drying, extractive yield, total ash content, laser granulometry, specific surface area and pore diameter (SBET), differential scanning calorimetry, thermogravimetry (TG), and wave dispersive X-Ray fluorescence (WDXRF). Total phenol/flavonoid content, LC-MS/MS analysis, DPPH and ABTS antioxidant radical assays, cytotoxicity, melanin, and tyrosinase inhibition in melanocytes test provided evidence to determine the content of the major constituent. P. nitida dry extract provided a fine powder with mesopores determined by SBET, with the TG curve showing five stages of mass loss. The antioxidant potential ranged between 23.5-31.5 mg∙mL-1 and tyrosinase inhibition between 400-654 µg∙mL-1. The species presented an antimelanogenic effect and an inhibitory activity of cellular tyrosinase (26.6%) at 25 µg/mL. The LC-MS/MS analysis of the spray-dried extract displayed the main and minor phenolic compounds constituting this sample. The results indicate that P. nitida extract has promising features for the development of cosmetic formulations

Cecropia pachystachya Trécul: a promising ingredient for skin-whitening cosmetics

Abstract Because it promotes the lightening of pigment spots, tyrosinase inhibition is one of the mechanisms of depigmenting cosmetic products. Considering the adverse effects produced by synthetic depigmenting actives, the search for new therapeutic options is desirable, and plant extracts are possible candidates for hyperpigmentation treatment. Glycolic extracts of Cecropia pachystachya Trécul are, therefore, the focus of this study. Its chemical characterization, antioxidant activity, tyrosinase inhibition, and cell viability were evaluated. Glycolic extracts were obtained by macerating the leaves of C. pachystachya in grain alcohol and glycerin or propylene glycol. Both had a similar chemical constitution, the glycerin being more efficient in concentrating phenolic compounds and flavonoids. Analyses by UHPLC-MS detected quinic acid, chlorogenic acid isomers, proanthocyanidin dimers type B and C, catechin/epicatechin, orientin/isoorientin, isoorientin 2"-O-xyloside, vitexin/isovitexin, and rutin. 5-O-caffeoylquinic acid was then quantified was then quantified, with predominance in the extract produced with propylene glycol. These extracts showed a high antioxidant capacity by the method of DPPH, ß-carotene, and nitric oxide. As for depigmenting activity, both extracts were able to inhibit tyrosinase. Cell viability assay also revealed that the extracts could safely be used in concentrations of ≤ 125 µg/mL. Thus, this study demonstrated for the first time that the glycolic extracts of C. pachystachya have promising chemical and biological characteristics for the development of a multifunctional cosmetic with antioxidant and tyrosinase-inhibition activities

Antilipoperoxidative and anti-inflammatory efficacy of multifunctional sunscreens containing ferulic acid

Unprotected chronic exposure to ultraviolet radiation generates many harmful effects to human skin and UV filters are essential to health, however, traditional sunscreens do not provide enough protection against cutaneous oxidative stress, a process amplified by UV radiation. Therefore, is been proposed the development of multifunctional photoprotective formulations, acting in the absorption/reflection of UV radiation and assisting in cutaneous homeostasis. In the present study, ferulic acid is used in conjunction with two sunscreens, bemotrizinol and ethylhexyl triazone, for the determination of biosafety and efficacy methods, using techniques that better elucidate the effects of ferulic acid. Skin permeation assays were performed by applying a formulation containing the three substances in the stratum corneum of volunteers, which were removed by the tape stripping method (ex vivo) with follow quantification by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). The test was able to evaluate the penetration depth of the substances, characterizing them. In addition, the simultaneous quantification of the three substances was performed by a single and fast method, facilitating their analysis and improving the technique. Also, TBARS (thiobarbituric acid reactive substances) assays were performed in stratum corneum removed by tape stripping (ex vivo), evaluating the potential of cutaneous lipid peroxidation, with or without ferulic acid. To date, it is the first time that TBARS method is used to characterize the stratum corneum (ex vivo) and quantified by HPLC. The protocol developed may aid in the efficacy of antioxidant agents in studies aimed at elucidating the level of lipid peroxidation caused by drugs and cosmetics, and even in carrying out baseline studies characterizing different ethnicities and genders. As last, an anti-inflammatory in vivo assay with Laser Doppler flowmetry equipment was used to compare the sunscreen formulation with or without ferulic acid. Data indicated that the antioxidant reduced the angular coefficient of the perfusion units, mitigating the inflammatory effects. Furthermore, a significant difference was found between the genders, suggesting a more pronounced inflammatory reaction in women. Ferulic acid proved to be a valuable resource, besides being safe and raise the SPF of sunscreens, it also mitigates the effects of inflammation

A exposição crônica desprotegida à radiação ultravioleta (UV) contribui para o desenvolvimento de câncer de pele e os filtros solares são relevantes para evitar tais efeitos prejudiciais, porém, os protetores solares tradicionais não geram proteção suficiente contra o estresse oxidativo cutâneo. Logo, espera-se o desenvolvimento de formulações fotoprotetoras multifuncionais, atuando não somente na absorção e/ou reflexão da radiação UV, mas, também, auxiliando na homeostase cutânea, com presença de agentes antioxidantes. No presente estudo foi utilizado o ácido ferúlico conjuntamente com dois filtros solares, o bemotrizinol e a triazona de octila, para determinação de métodos de segurança e eficácia, utilizando técnicas que melhor elucidem e comprovem os efeitos do ácido ferúlico. Foram realizados ensaios de permeação cutânea pela aplicação tópica de formulação contendo as três substâncias em voluntários, sendo o estrato córneo retirado pelo método de tape stripping (ex vivo) com subsequente quantificação por cromatografia líquida de alta eficiência (CLAE). O ensaio pôde avaliar a profundidade de penetração das substâncias, caracterizando-as. Ademais, a quantificação simultânea das três substâncias foi efetuada por método único e rápido, facilitando análise com aprimoramento da técnica. Em adição, foi realizado ensaios de TBARS (substâncias reativas ao ácido tiobarbitúrico) em estrato córneo removido por tape stripping (ex vivo), para avaliar o potencial de peroxidação lipídica cutânea, contendo ou não o ácido ferúlico. Até o presente momento, é a primeira vez que o método TBARS é utilizado para caracterização do estrato córneo (ex vivo) e quantificada por CLAE. O protocolo desenvolvido pode auxiliar na eficácia de agentes antioxidantes, em estudos que visam elucidar o nível de peroxidação lipídica causada por medicamentos e cosméticos e, até mesmo, na realização de estudos de base, caracterizando etnias e gêneros. Ademais, um ensaio anti-inflamatório in vivo com equipamento de fluxometria Laser Doppler foi utilizado para comparar a formulação fotoprotetora com ou sem ácido ferúlico. Os dados indicaram que o antioxidante reduziu o coeficiente angular das unidades de perfusão, mitigando os efeitos inflamatórios. Ainda, foi identificada diferença entre os gêneros, sugerindo reação inflamatória mais pronunciada em mulheres. O ácido ferúlico provou ser um recurso valioso, além de ser seguro e elevar o FPS dos fotoprotetores, também atenuando os efeitos da inflamação

Estratégias para identificação e quantificação de aminoácidos tipo micosporinas (MAAs) em cianobactérias e outros organismos para aplicação em cosmética e farmacêutica / Identification and quantification methods of mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) in cyanobacteria and other microorganisms for cosmetic and pharmaceutical application

Os aminoácidos tipo micosporinas (MAAs) são compostos, produzidos por algumas espécies de cianobactérias e outros microorganismos, principalmente quando são expostos a radiação ultravioleta (UVR). Estes compostos, que vêm demonstrando funções fotoprotetoras e antioxidantes, têm sido pesquisados para aplicação em protetores solares e em produtos antienvelhecimento. O presente estudo focou na caracterização de cianobactérias e outros organismos quanto à produção de MAAs com potencial aplicação em cosméticos. Neste estudo foram desenvolvidos diversos métodos para identificação (via HPLC-DAD-MS/HRMS), purificação (via HPLC-DAD) e quantificação de MAAs (via LC-MS/MS). Pelo método de identificação de MAAs verificou-se que, das 75 cianobactérias estudadas, 27 cepas (38%) sintetizam MAAs. A cepa Oscilatoria sp. CMMA 1600 produziu a maior diversidade de MAAs. 10 MAAs diferentes foram identificados incluindo um MAA de massa molecular 316 Da. Através de dados espectroscópicos obtidos via HPLC-DAD-HRMS e RMN 1D e 2D confirmou-se que se tratava da micosporina-glicina-alanina. A biossíntese natural deste composto por cianobactérias foi relatada pela primeira vez neste estudo. Quanto à quantificação de MAAs, o protocolo de extração otimizado possibilitou uma excelente recuperação dos compostos de interesse, além de ser bastante simples e não utilizar solventes poluentes. As análises via LC-MS/MS foram realizadas através de experimentos de MRM em modo positivo usando uma coluna de fase reversa. O método validado permitiu determinar e quantificar com precisão os MAAs porphyra-334, shinorina e micosporina-glicina-alanina em corridas de apenas 6 minutos, com limites de deteção inferiores a 0,005 µg.mg -1. Aplicando o método de LC-MS/MS realizaram experimentos de indução de MAAs através de exposição à UVR tendo-se observado um aumento da concentração de MAAs nas cepas que já sintetizam estes compostos e, outras cepas começaram a produzir pelo menos um MAA. As cepas de S. torques-reginae (ITEP-024 e ITEP-026) produziram a maior concentração de MAAs. A cepa ITEP-024 foi ainda exposta a diferentes radiações tendo-se observado que a UVB é que mais influencia a produção de MAAs. Neste estudo foi demonstrado o potencial das cianobactérias como produtores de MAAs que podem ser utilizados como fotoprotores em protetores solares

Mycosporines and mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are UV-absorbing compounds produced by cyanobacteria and other organisms, especially upon exposer to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR). These compounds are photoprotective and some have additional antioxidant functíons useful to the natural cosmetics market. This study aims to identify MAAs-producing cyanobacteria with potential applicatíons in cosmetics. A HPLC-DAD-MS/HRMS method for the identification of MAAs was developed. Out of the 75 cyanobacteria studied, 27 strains (38%) synthesized MAAs. Oscilatoria sp. CMMA 1600, from homocyte type, produced the greatest diversity of MAAs. 10 different MAAs were identified including a MAA with molecular weight of 316 Da. The chemical structure of mycosporine-glycine-alanine was confirmed by 1D/2D NMR and HRMS analyses. This compound has never been reported from a natural source. In this study, a validated LC-MS/MS quantification method for MAAs is also presented. An easy-to-handle and rapid extraction procedure was developed which uses only water and volatile additives as the extractor solvents. The LC-MS/MS method was performed using multiple reaction monitoring in positive mode with a reverse-phase column. The method enabled the accurate determination and quantification of the MAAs porphyra-334, shinorine and mycosporine-glycine-alanine in a 6 minutes running time, with limits of detection < 0.005 µg.mg-1. MAAs induction experiments were performed through UVR exposure. MAAs are constitutively produced by some cyanobacteria and production was further enhanced following UVirradiance. Other strains start to produce at least one MAA after UV-irradiance. Sphaerospermopsis torques-reginae strain (ITEP-024 and ITEP-026) produced the highest concentration of these photoprotective compounds. S. torques-reginae ITEP 024 strain was further exposed to different radiation compositíons. MAAs were significantly influenced by UVB. In this study, the potential of cyanobacteria as MAA producers, that can be used as photoprotectors in sunscreens, has been demonstrated

Development of sunscreen products containing passion fruit seed extract

Abstract Application of sunscreen is the most established method of protecting skin from premature aging and photoaging. In this study, the passion fruit seed extract, enriched with biologically beneficial phenolics, was formulated into sun-protective makeup product. The UVB protection of concealer mousse was found have twofold higher sun protection factor (SPF) than the liquid foundation (15.48 ± 1.60 and 5.88 ± 0.30, respectively). The SPF of concealer mousse as well as the liquid foundation containing 0.1% and 0.3% of the passion fruit seed extract were 18.75 ± 0.28, 18.99 ± 0.71 and 9.32 ± 0.88, 9.77 ± 1.37, respectively. Therefore, the concealers with a similar sun-protective efficacy (p>0.05) were included for stability test accordingly. The sun-protective efficacy did not significantly shift (p>0.05) because the 0.1% and 0.3% passion fruit extract concealers had SPF of 18.09 ± 1.48 and 18.60 ± 1.21. The concealers exhibited UVA photoprotection with a boot star rating of 4 and a critical wavelength wider than 370 nm. The safety of 0.1% passion fruit extract concealer mousse was assessed. It did not cause skin irritation when assessed in human volunteers. This sunscreen makeup product provides UVA and UVB protection and is therefore suitable for daily application.

Guava: phytochemical composition of a potential source of antioxidants for cosmetic and/or dermatological applications

ABSTRACT Guava (Psidium guajava L.) is a native fruit of the American tropics with commercial applications for its taste, flavor and aroma. Numerous pharmacological uses have been described for it, such as the antiseptic effect of its leaves, the use of the fresh fruit and tea from its leaves for the treatment of diarrhea, dysentery, diabetes mellitus, and others. However, considering its rich composition, the guava also is a potential source of antioxidants to be used in the development of new formulations for cosmetic and/or dermatological applications, the main focus of this research. Herein, we describe the study of the phytochemical composition and the antioxidant activity of a guava extract prepared with non-toxic solvents aiming its use at biological applications. High performance liquid chromatography and mass spectrometry were employed to identify the major components, while thermoanalytical measurements and hot stage microscopy were used to assess the chemical stability of guava fruit extract. The antioxidant activity was also evaluated assessing the SOD-like activity and ABTS free radical scavenger. The results show that the extract is a rich source of phenolic compounds, such as quercetin, kaempferol, schottenol, among many others. All of the components found in guava extract exhibit biological effects according to the literature data, mainly antioxidant properties.

Gelatin-based microspheres crosslinked with glutaraldehyde and rutin oriented to cosmetics

ABSTRACT Glutaraldehyde (GTA) has been extensively used as a gelatin crosslinking agent, however, new natural ones have been suggested as more biocompatible. Polyphenols are possible candidates and the flavonols, such as rutin (RUT), also exhibit potential synergism with sunscreens and antioxidant agents used in cosmetics. In this work, gelatin microspheres (M0) were obtained and crosslinked with GTA 10 mM (MG) or RUT 10 mM (MR), dissolved in acetone:NaOH 0,01M (70:30 v/v). MG exhibited crosslinking extent of 54.4%. Gelatin, M0, MG and MR did not elicit any signs of skin damage, regarding the formation of erythema, the barrier function disruption and negative interference in the stratum corneum hydration. Oily dispersions containing M0, MG or MR, isolated or combined with benzophenone-3 or octyl methoxycinnamate, suggested that the microspheres, at a 5.0% w/w, had no additional chemical or physical photoprotective effect in vitro. Crosslinking with RUT had occurred, but in a lower degree than GTA. Microspheres had not improved sun protection parameters, although, non-treated gelatin interfered positively with the SPF for both UV filters. The in vivo studies demonstrated that these materials had very good skin compatibility.

Use of Opuntia ficus-indica (L. ) Mill extracts from Brazilian Caatinga as an alternative of natural moisturizer in cosmetic formulations

ABSTRACT The aim of this work was the obtainment of Opuntia fícus-indica (L.) Mill extract for the development of cosmetic formulations and in vivo evaluation of its moisturizing effects. The formulations were tested for preliminary and accelerated stability. Organoleptic characteristics, pH values and rheological behavior were assessed. The evaluation of moisturizing efficacy of the emulsions formulated with 3.0% of Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7 containing 1.0 and 3.0% of O. ficus-indica hydroglycolic extract (EHG001) was performed using the capacitance method (Corneometer(r)) and the transepidermal water loss - TEWL evaluation (Tewameter(r)). The emulsions formulated were stable, exhibiting pseudoplastic and thixotropic behavior. The results of evaluation of moisturizing efficacy showed increased skin hydration after five hours by mainly increasing the skin barrier effect. The formulations containing 1.0 and 3.0% of EHG001 enhanced the skin barrier effect by reducing TEWL up to four hours after application. The results observed suggest that O. ficus-indica hydroglycolic extract may act through a humectant and occlusion mechanism.

Ácido ferúlico em protetores solares: desenvolvimento e eficácia multifuncional in vitro, ex vivo e in vivo / Ferulic acid in sunscreens: development and multifunctional effectiveness in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo

A conscientização da população com relação aos malefícios da radiação ultravioleta (UV) levaram à adoção de hábitos preventivos, com destaque para a utilização diária de formulações fotoprotetoras. Ainda que os filtros solares tradicionais sejam efetivos na absorção ou reflexão da radiação UV, sabe-se que a sua atuação contra os radicais livres é limitada, fator que exige a incorporação de compostos antioxidantes às preparações, visando proteção cutânea de excelência. O presente trabalho objetivou o desenvolvimento e avaliação de formulações multifuncionais contendo os filtros solares bemotrizinol e octil triazona, acrescidos do composto bioativo ácido ferúlico - reconhecido pelas suas propriedades antioxidante e fotoprotetora. As formulações foram desenvolvidas de acordo com um delineamento experimental do tipo fatorial (DoE 23) e avaliadas por meio de metodologias in vitro, in vivo e ex vivo para determinação de sua eficácia fotoprotetora e potencial antioxidante. As emulsões foram consideradas estáveis, seguras, com valor de pH biocompatível com a pele e viscosidade aparente adequada ao uso proposto. O delineamento experimental comprovou o potencial antioxidante e fotoprotetor do ácido ferúlico, visto que a presença deste promoveu aumento de até 90% na atividade antioxidante in vitro das formulações, bem como acréscimo de 32% no Fator de Proteção Solar (FPS) in vivo e 24% no Fator de Proteção UVA (UVA-PF). Por meio do ensaio ex vivo, a formulação contendo o ácido ferúlico apresentou tendência em aumentar a atividade antioxidante natural da pele, comparativamente à formulação contendo apenas os filtros solares e à pele não tratada; ademais, houve queda no potencial antioxidante da pele após a exposição à radiação UV, enfatizando a necessidade de proteção cutânea frente aos danos oxidativos. Os resultados comprovaram os efeitos antioxidante e fotoprotetor combinados do ácido ferúlico, em especial quando em sinergismo com filtros solares, tornando o composto bioativo um candidato promissor no desenvolvimento de formulações multifuncionais inovadoras, seguras e eficazes contra os efeitos nocivos decorrentes da exposição solar

The public awareness regarding the harmful effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation led to preventive habits, especially the daily use of sunscreens. Although traditional solar filters are effective in UV radiation absorption or reflection, it is known that their activity against free radicals is restricted, an aspect that requires the incorporation of antioxidants to preparations, aiming superior skin protection. Here, we developed and evaluated multifunctional formulations containing the sunscreens bemotrizinol and ethylhexyl triazone plus the bioactive compound ferulic acid - known for its antioxidant and photoprotective properties. Formulations were developed according to a factorial experimental design (DoE 23) and evaluated using in vitro, in vivo and ex vivo methods to determine its photoprotective effectiveness and antioxidant potential. The emulsions were considered stable, safe, with pH value biocompatible with the skin and apparent viscosity suitable for the proposed use. The experimental design evidenced the photoprotective and antioxidant potential of ferulic acid, once its presence increased to 90% the in vitro antioxidant activity of the formulations, as well as 32% increase in the in vivo Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and 24% increase in the UVA Protection Factor (UVA-PF). Through the ex vivo assay, the formulation containing ferulic acid tended to increase the natural antioxidant activity of the skin, compared to the formulation containing only UV filters or the untreated skin; moreover, there was a decrease in the antioxidant potential of the skin after UV radiation exposure, emphasizing the need for skin protection against oxidative damage. The results confirmed the antioxidant and photoprotective effects of ferulic acid, especially when in synergy with UV filters, making the bioactive compound a promising candidate in the development of innovative, safe and effective multifunctional formulations against the harmful effects of sun exposure

Patenting in the cosmetic sector: study of the use of herbal extracts

The aim of this work was to evaluate the innovative performance of herbal extracts applied in cosmetics area, based on information collected from Brazilian, American and European patent banks. Analysis were carried out to evaluate the number of patent deposits from each database, the patent applicants profiles, the companies with most patent applications, and also the main uses of herbal extracts in cosmetics. Based on the results achieved, the number of patents filed at the Brazilian patent bank is much lower than that observed in American and European patent banks. Although the number of patents is limited, the analysis indicated a range of cosmetic applications that acts according to the international market trend, represented by a large number of multifunctional products.

O objetivo deste trabalho foi avaliar o cenário da inovação referente a extratos vegetais aplicados no setor de cosméticos, com base em informações extraídas dos bancos de patentes brasileiro, americano e europeu. Foram realizadas análises para avaliar o número de depósitos de patentes de cada banco de dados, o perfil dos depositantes, as empresas com maior número de registros de patentes, e também as principais aplicações dos extratos vegetais descritos nos documentos. Com base nos resultados obtidos, o número de patentes depositadas no banco de patentes brasileiro é muito inferior ao observado nos bancos de patentes americano e europeu. No entanto, embora o número de patentes seja limitado, as análises indicaram uma variedade de aplicações cosméticas que agem de acordo com a tendência do mercado internacional, representada por um número elevado de produtos multifuncionais.